March is an important and busy month in the garden, weather permitting. If you have the large flowered summer clematis, don’t delay any longer in pruning them. Also any other shrubs that should be spring pruned can be done without further delay. If you are in doubt as to when you should prune, the rule of thumb is that if the subject flowers before June, prune immediately after it has finished flowering. If it flowers June onwards, prune in early spring. If you’re still in doubt - ASK. One of the most popular subjects to be pruned in mid March is, of course, the Rose. H.T. varieties need to be cut down to the first or second outward facing bud from the base. Floribunda varieties are pruned less severely. Also cut right out any weak or diseased wood. Climbers should be cut back as per instruction on the label because some varieties need different treatment to others. Ramblers are completely different and these have their old flowering growth cut right out at ground level when they have finished flowering in late summer.
The flower borders will appreciate your attention now. If any herbaceous subjects are getting to the stage when they need dividing, do it now. Lift the old root, split the plant by using two forks back to back and levering the root system apart. Throw away any old woody parts and replant the younger growth which is usually that from round the outer edge. Most perennials should be split every three years, or so. Give the borders a dressing of fertilizer and lightly hoe or fork it in for best results. Also a mulch is much appreciated if applied at this time of year. Do not, however, stop feeding throughout the growing season. A top dressing every 6-8 weeks between March and September will more than reward your efforts. Also, as mentioned last month. Keep a watch out for slug damage and act accordingly - prevention is better than cure and there are several treatments available, all of which are safe to use.
In the vegetable garden sowings can now be made of several subjects. However, don’t sow if the ground is too cold or wet - the seeds will rot, or at best have their germination delayed. There is an old gardeners saying which is well worth remembering - “if the soil sticks to your boots, keep off”. A little patience to allow conditions to improve is well worth the wait. Plants always catch up and grow better when conditions are favourable. As a last resort, the ground could be covered with polythene sheets to warm it up.
Work in the greenhouse should now be well underway. Bring into steady growth any over-wintered geraniums and fuchsias and repot if necessary using a pot only one size larger (never overpot), and a good potting compost. Always use the correct compost for the job in hand - they are all formulated differently for a specific purpose and don’t use growbag compost for anything other than for what it is intended. Cut back plants if necessary for a better shape.
The grass is starting to grow and the lawns will soon start to need attention. Raking and clearing of winter debris can be done but leave mowing for as long as you can. For the first mow of the season set the blades high. Check the setting, particularly if the mower has had a service. They often leave the workshop set on the lowest setting! If you intend to use a feed and weed fertilizer on your lawn, don’t do it until next month.
If you have a herb garden you can make the first sowing of parsley - do this in small batches to follow on and don’t forget the useful life of parsley is only a couple of years so sow every year to keep the crop permanent. If you have trouble in germinating parsley you can either make the drills and soak them with scalding water before sowing, or raise some plants in small pots indoors - they transplant very successfully. If you suffer with Parsley going red in the leaves, this is caused by carrot fly. Cure - put a ‘fence’ of fleece either side of the row about 60cm (2ft) high - the fly doesn’t get above about 60cm in height from the ground. The same applies, of course to rows of carrots.
PRUNING - a very basic guide to Why? When? How? What?
Why? - To remove unwanted, damaged, diseased, weak or poor quality wood from a (usually hard-wooded) plant, shrub or tree. This includes ornamental, flowering and fruit trees, bushes etc. Also to maintain or regulate size, shape etc. and to encourage production of fruit where appropriate.
When? - This varies, depending on subject. The following is a basic rule of thumb guide, but if in doubt, ask.
Flowering Shrubs - If it flowers before end of May, prune back immediately after flowering. Cut out any weak or dead/diseased wood. Cut back all wood that has produced blooms. Always bear in mind the size/shape you will have next year. If the subject flowers after the end of May, the procedure is as before but should be done January – March. Don’t wait for it to come into growth.
Broad Leafed Evergreens - Basic shaping and again removal of any weak unwanted growth. Carry this out in May.
Conifers - Best time for this is late summer into early autumn.
Roses (in this area) - Mid March to April.
Clematis - February/March
Wisteria - Twice a year. July and again in December/January
Fruit - Autumn through to spring (depending on type/variety)
How? - Most pruning, although it can sometimes seem daunting, is really a matter of common sense. If real doubt persists it is perhaps better to err on the side of caution – once growth has been cut off, it can’t be put back. Study the shape and size of the tree or shrub and decide what you’re going to do before you start – afterwards can be too late! Always use clean and sharp tools be they secateurs or pruning saw. Don’t strain secateurs by trying to cut through anything more than about 15mm (approx. ½”) thick. Over this size use a saw and any wound to a branch or stem which is over 15mm (approx. ½”) treat with arbrex immediately.
Standard Pruning - Is the partial removal of the woody part of a plant. This can be light pruning when very little material is removed or hard pruning when substantial amounts of wood are removed. One stage further is stooling when virtually all the woody structure of the plant is removed. This can be carried out on such subjects as Eucalyptus, Dog wood and the butterfly bush (Buddleia). Even an old Rhododendron if cut down almost to ground level will grow again from the base. Also shearing or clipping a hedge or topiary is basically a form of pruning.
What?
Fruit Trees -
Cherry & Plum Trees - Need little or no pruning when the shape and size has been established.
Apple & Pear – spur pruning – this entails cutting back the leaders by half and reduce most laterals to 4-5 growth buds. However, some apple varieties are tip bearing. These include varieties ‘Discovery’, ‘Fortune’, ‘Worcester’, ‘Bramley’ and ‘Lord Lambourne’. These need regulation pruning because the fruit is born on the end of the branches which must not, of course, be removed. With regulation pruning just remove any weak, diseased wood or crossing branches and cut back a few of the leaders at the top of the tree. Always keep the middle of a fruit tree ‘open’ so that air circulates. It also makes for easier picking in the autumn.
Soft Fruit -
Raspberries – old wood which has fruited should be cut down to ground level immediately after fruit is picked. Tie in new growths for bearing next years crops. In February take top of growth off at about 2m (approx. 6½ft) high. Autumn-fruiting varieties – cut all canes down to ground level in February
Black Currants – Prune established bushes by cutting out about one third of the old fruiting wood after picking the crop. Leave other growth untouched. Don’t leave any branches to age more than four years.
Other Currants and Gooseberries – for the first four years allow the bushes to build a shape then cut new growth back by half each winter. Like top fruit, the centre of the bush must be kept open.
Wisteria – allow the leaders to grow as far as desired but prune the laterals by cutting back by half in July and then prune the same laterals hard (to near the main stem) in December/January.
Roses – always make a clean cut about 70mm (approx. ¼”) above an outward facing eye/bud. Remove any dead/weak growth. H.T. types should be pruned to about the second or third eye above ground level. Floribundas can be pruned a little less severely.
Ramblers – cut out old flowering wood to ground level when flowering has finished and tie in new growth.
Climbers – cut out any weak/diseased growth and tie in healthy growth. Some varieties produce laterals or side growth which may need cutting back a little.
Clematis - There are several types of clematis and they need different treatment. The following is a basic guide and if further advice is required it is essential that the type and variety is known. They are split into three main groups, as follows:
Group 1 – Spring flowering that flower on previous years growth. These include C.Alpina, C.Cirrhosa, C.Macropetala, C.Montana. Treat these as follows: First year, in February, cut back all stems to 30 - 40cm (approx 12”-15”) to encourage branching. Second years cut back all stems to about 90 - 100cm (approx. 36”-40”) after flowering. Subsequent years, just cut out any damaged or dead wood after flowering and then allow the plant to carry on.
Group 2 – This consists of the large flowered early varieties including the doubles and semi doubles. In years one and two, treat these the same as Group 1. In subsequent years cut all stems back to a strong plump pair of buds. Remove any weak or damaged growth. The growth buds are found on opposite sides of the stem in old leaf axils.
Group 3 – Treat as above in years one and two and thereafter cut down to 45 - 60cm (approx. 18”-24”) in February. This group consists of late flowering types such as the Jackmanii’s and the Viticella types.
Vines (Grapes) - During the first and second years, treat as follows: in spring and summer allow the leader to grow unrestricted in length but tie in to its support. Train the laterals alternately to the left and right and cut back laterals to leave only 5 leaves. Remove any flowers. In November/December shorten the new growth of the leader by half. (The new growth is recognisable by its paler colour). Cut back laterals to about 25mm (1”) from leader. Third and subsequent years, repeat the above routine except that when flowers appear (in spring) cut back laterals to 2 leaves beyond the flower truss. Cut back any sub-laterals to 1 leaf. Keep only 1 fruiting lateral per spur – rub out any others. For the first few years leave only 1 bunch per lateral. Older vines can bear 2 or 3 bunches. In November/December prune the leader by half. When the vine has reached the length you wish it to attain, curt the leader back 25mm (1”) beyond current years growth.
Hopefully the above may be of some assistance. If more help is required, please don’t hesitate to ask a member of the Plant sales team – we are always pleased to help. There are many subjects which may need regular pruning or just the occasional cutting back which haven’t been mentioned, so for any specific information you only have to enquire.
